Blue Feather Sweater: tutorial

Here is a knitting tutorial on how to make a Blue Feather Sweater. I don’t call it a pattern because is it not really a pattern in full sense as I don’t indicate different sizes. But using this very simple instructions you will be able to create your own unique sweater of any size! Click HERE to see more pictures.

 Important Notes

• The body of my sweater is made with stripes: some of them are made with 2 strands of alpaca and others - with1 strand of mohair. I wanted to achieve a structural effect of dense fabric alternating with very airy and transparent parts. But the sleeves are made with 1 strand only. You can of course make the whole sweater with 1 strand of yarn. Then you will need less yarn than me.
• If you are used to knit sweaters in one-piece with circular or double pointed needles, please, keep in mind that there are many color changes and you will have many yarn tails which should be woven in. I am not a master of weaving tails into transparent knitted fabric. That’s why I worked the body and sleeves on straight needles and then sewed all parts together with matress stitch.  And wove tail into the seams.
• You can use any colors for this sweater. You are not really limited as Rhythm line by Scheepjes has many absolutely gorgeous shades.

 

Size

Tutorial is written for one size (S): body - 60cm (24”) x 59cm (35 ½”); sleeves -  16 cm (6 1/2”) x 49cm (19 ½”)

But you can easily adjust its width and height and calculate the amount of stitches using a very simple formula below.

 

You will need:

• Lace yarn. I used Alpaca Rhythm and Mohair Rhythm by Scheepjes in following colors (one skein of each) – 126g in total:

Mohair Rhythm: 675 (11g), 676 (7g), 677 (7g), 679 (8g), 682 (11g)
Alpaca Rhythm: 661 (25g – whole skein), 662 (9g), 655 (9g), 656 (11g), 657 (11g), 659 (17g).

NOTE: If you decide to make other size than mine, you will obviously need more (or less) yarn. 11 skeins (in listed colors) are 275g of yarn in total. This is twice more than I used for my sweater and it should be enough for larger sweater. Maybe you will only need 1 more skein of Alpaca 661.

Rhythm yarn (both Alpaca and Mohair) is available on Deramores* and Wool Warehouse*(international shipping), Paradise Fibers* (US) and on Scheepjes.com (NL)

• Needles size 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 25 rows in stocking st for 10 x 10 cm (4" x 4"). Needles size 3 mm/US 2.5 - for rib only.
• Crochet hook 3.25mm (D) for tiny crocheted detail along the neck opening and hook 2.5mm (C) for attatching the sleeves.
• Tapestry needle to put your sweater together.
• Approx. 110-120 beads for decoration of neck opening (2 rows of beads on front). If you would like to decorate front and back, you will need double amount of the beads. 

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Stitch guide and Abbreviations

US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern.

st(s) - stitch(es)
*…* - *crochet/knit following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
k - knit stitch
p – purl stitch

rib – ribbing
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
stocking st
mattress st
cast on - I prefer so called "Italian cast on" as it makes the edge more elastic with a fabric look.

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INSTRUCTIONS

Add this tutorial to your Ravelry Queue

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.

 

How to calculate the stitches 

If you need to make the sweater of another size – please, use the gauge to calculate correct amount of stitches. Please, note that due to absence of arm openings, the body should be a bit oversized.

You can use this simple formula: (desired width in cm) / 10 x 18 (gauge for 10cm) + 2 side sts
Or: (desired width in inches) / 4 x 18 (gauge for 4") + 2 side sts

Examples: 

1. You need 70cm width. Use the formula: 70/10x18 = 126 sts + 2 side sts = 128 sts in total.

2. You need 26" width: 26/4x18 = 117 sts + 2 side sts = 119 sts in total.

And if you want a longer sweater - you can just knit more rows (and make some of the stripes wider according to your taste). For example, if you you want to make your sweater 10cm (4") longer - you should add 24 rows. And it's 2 extra rows to 12 stripes.

 

BODY (front and back are identical)

The size of my (sweater’s) body is 60cm (24”) - width and 59cm (35 ½”) - height (blocked and including crocheted detail along the neck opening). This sweater is designed with a little bit oversized fit. So please, keep it in mind while calculating the sts.

NOTE: the 1^st st in the beginning of every row is slipped on the needle unworked.

Work in rows. Cast on 114 sts (or as many sts as you need for a desired width of your sweater) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands of Alpaca 661. Work 3cm – 10 rows (1 ½ inches) with rib (k2, p2). Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stocking st until you get the desired length of your sweater. Remember the knitting gauge. When you are satisfied with the length, cast off loosely.

Here is my color way:

Rows 1-10 (rib) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 11-16 (6 rows) – continue with 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 17-20 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 21-22 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 23-32 (10 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 33-38 (6 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 662
Rows 39-40 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 677
Rows 41-42 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 662
Rows 43-52 (10 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 677
Rows 53-56 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 57-64 (8 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 657
Rows 65-72 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 676
Rows 73-74 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 657
Rows 75-78 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 656
Rows 79-82 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 676
Rows 83-86 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 656
Rows 87-90 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 91-98 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 99-102 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 103-104 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 105-110 (6 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 111-112 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 113-116 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 117-120 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 655
Rows 121-122 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 113-128 (6 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 129-132 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 133-138 (6 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 655
Rows 139-142 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
  

Crochet detail along the neck opening:

After casting off the upper edge of your sweater will curl. But the crocheted detail will help to fix it.

Work on right side with 1 strand of Alpaca 659 and crochet hook 3.25mm (D). Try to adjust your gauge and don’t crochet too tight or too loose. The width of the crocheted detail should be the same as the body’s width.

NOTE: ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc/dc.

Row 1 (RS). Insert the hook in a st on the side, yo, pull up a loop, ch1. Make 1 sc in each of 112 sts on the edge of front/back inserting the hook in the sts of the last row of the body. Turn. 
Row 2 (WS). Ch1, 112 sc, turn.
Row 3 (RS). Ch2, 112 dc, turn.
Row 4-5. Ch1, 112 sc, bind off.

 

SLEEVES

I have long and skinny arms so I feel comfortable with narrow and quite long sleeves. The size of sleeves of my sweater is: 32cm (13”) – width, 49cm (19 ½”) length

Please, use the same formula to calculate the width of your sleeves as for the body.

The sleeves are worked with 1 strand (and only the rib in the beginning is made with 2 strands)! It helps to achieve a very transparent and open effect.

Work in rows. Cast on 58 sts (or as many sts as you need for a desired width of your sleeve) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands of Alpaca 661. Work 3cm – 10 rows (1 ½ inches) with rib (k2, p2). Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue to work in stockinng st until you get the desired length of the sleeves. Remember the knitting gauge. When you are satisfied with the length, cast off loosely.

Colorway:

Rows 1-10 (rib) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 11-110 – same color way as for the body, but work with 1 strand of yarn.
111-114 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Alpaca 659
115-122 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Alpaca 655

 

BLOCKING

Block the parts of your sweater before putting it together. Aplaca Rhythm and Mohair Rhythm are being blocked in a wonderful way! Simply pin the parts to blocking board (I don’t pin the ribbing part on the side), spray water over them (don’t press with towel!!) and leave it to dry. After drying the fabric will keep its shape perfectly! 

 

Putting Sweater Together

Place the front and the back parts of your sweater on top of each other (right sides facing each other). First sew the shoulder parts together with sc – you will work through both layers with the same yarn used for crocheted detail (1 strand) and crochet hook 3.25mm (D).

To start make a slip knot and insert the hook in the first sc of the crochet detail, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull yarn through both lps (1st sc is done). Continue with sc in 32 next sts (you may make shoulders wider or shorter), fasten off. Sew another shoulder in the same way.

The sides will be sewn together with mattress stitch (you will work on the right side. Because my sweater has an ombre effect, I used yarn tails of different colors to sew sides together – dark yarn for dark parts of the body and light yarn for light parts. Leave the necessary length open on the top side for arm openings (the same on both sides!), so your sleeves can fit through!

Sew the sides of the sleeves with mattress st in the same way as you did for the sides of the body.

Now you should sew the sleeves into the arm openings. Position sleeves into the arm openings (right sides face each other) and center the seams on the body and the sleeve. Pin the sleeve to the body with a few sewing pins. Then attach the sleeve with crochet slip stitches using 1 strand of Alpaca 655 and crochet hook 2.5mm (C). Don’t pull the stitches too tight, and don’t let them be too loose at the same time. The fabric should not warp and the size of arm opening should stay the same after the sleeves are attached.

Weave all yarn tails into the seams. They may look a bit rough but both yarns are very soft, so the seam is not too visible and doesn’t spoil the sweater at all.

Congratulations!!! Your Blue Feather Sweater is finished!! Almost… You should only add beads to the crocheted detail along the neck opening. I used the same yarn as for crocheted part of the body and sewed beads on the front part only (in two rows).

 That’s it! I hope this tutorial will work well for you and can’t wait to see your finished sweaters!!

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