Greetings from the North Sea! I am travelling along the Belgian coast at the moment. And I should say it was quite a challenge to find a place with an internet here. So I decided to post from the first spot I found, with not keeping the timing... How many blocks from this CAL have you made already? Every day new "arrivals" are here and my heart is getting happier and happier after seeing all you masterpieces. Colors you choose are so different and each new combination makes the same square look absolutely unique. I know that some of you are planning to make bags and even blankets using the squares from Circles of the Sun CAL. And I really hope you will share your creations with me - on Facebook or Ravelry.
Please, also check General Information, Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3 of this CAL.
Dutch by Dianne Baan
German by Libminna
Portuguese by Estela Mizukawa
Video tutorial by Esther Dijkstra of It’s all in a Nutshell
Ok, so after today we are almost half done with the CAL! But still many more clues are waiting for you ahead! :)
Today's design is a kind of mixture of everything you did before during this CAL. You will see some elements that you've made already but at the same time there will be more layers added. I believe that by now you are almost experts in overlay crochet as you have already trained the basics of this technique. You know how to attach new yarn, how to needle join, how to crochet in back or front loops, how to anchor overlaid stitches and how to keep your gauge under control. But if you joined this CAL right now and haven't crocheted three previous blocks, please, check a separate section about overlay crochet before you start to make your first square. There you will find answers to all the questions.
Are you ready for the next block? Here it is!!
You will need:
The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. My square is approx. 12.5 cm (5 inches) large.
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd - round
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
lp(s) - loop(s)
FL - front loop(s)
BL - back loop(s)
NJ - needle join
sk - skip st(s)
*…* - *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
slst (slip stitch) - insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
tr (treble crochet) – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
tr2tog (treble crochet 2 together) - *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
tr3tog (treble crochet 3 together) – *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 3 times in same st, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
dc inc - double crochet increase
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Orange
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C4.
Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11 dc in magic ring; NJ in the 1st dc after ch2. (= 12 dc)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any dc of rnd 1. Work this rnd in BL!
*1 dc inc in each st of rnd 1 (the 1st dc of the rnd will be ch2)* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (= 24 dc)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in 1st dc (BL) of any dc inc of rnd 2. Work this rnd in BL!
Note: make 3 tr’s of each tr3tog in the same st of rnd 1. There will be 1 st skipped on rnd 1 between two tr3tog’s.
*1 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 tr3tog (FL) in the directly underlying st of rnd 1, sk no sts on rnd 2, 2 sc, 1 sc inc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st tr3tog of the rnd after ch1. (= 36 sts)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C6. Attach yarn in any tr3tog (BL) of rnd 3. Work this rnd in BL!
Note: make all tr’s to the height of working rnd. And don’t work this rnd too tight. Your circle should stay flat.
*3 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 tr (FL) in skipped st of rnd 1 visible between two tr3tog of rnd 3, sk 1 st on rnd 3, 2 sc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 36 sts)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in any tr (BL) of rnd 4. Work this rnd in BL!
*1 hdc inc (the 1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2 hdc* 12 times, NJ in the 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (= 48 hdc’s)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in the 2nd hdc (BL) of hdc inc of rnd 5 which lies above any tr3tog. Work this rnd in BL.
Note: You will get 12 “V” on this rnd and there are always 2 sts skipped on the rnd 4 at the bottom of each “V”.
*2 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch),
1 tr2tog (FL) (work 1st tr (FL) in a st of rnd 4 directly above underlying tr3tog of rnd 3, work second tr (FL) in next tr of rnd 4), sk no sts on rnd 5, 4 sc,
1 tr2tog (FL) (work 1st tr (FL) in the same st of rnd 4 where previous tr was made and work 2nd tr (FL) in a st of rnd 4 directly above next tr3tog of rnd 3), sk no sts on rnd 5, 2 sc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 60 sts)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any tr2tog (BL) of rnd 6. Work this rnd in BL!
Note: all dc inc’s are made in tr2tog’s of rnd 6.
*1 dc inc in tr2tog (the 1st dc of the rnd will be ch 2), 4 dc* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (= 72 sts)
Rnd 8. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in the 2nd dc (BL) of any dc inc of rnd 7. Work this rnd in BL! After this rnd you will get 4 corners.
*6 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 tr in next st, ch2, 2 tr in next st, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc* 4 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 80 sts + 4 ch2-sps)
Rnd 9. Change to yarn С3. Attach yarn in the 1st sc (BL) of any group of six of rnd 8. Work this rnd in BL!
*12 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 hdc, 2 dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, 2dc in the same ch2-sp, 1 hdc, 6 sc* 4 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 96 sts + 4 ch2-sps)
Make a decorative rnd with surface sl sts on the rnd 7 using yarn C5. Please, reade THIS POST to learn how to make surface slip stitches if you haven't done them before.
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Happy crocheting week,
TRANSLATIONS
Dutch by Dianne Baan
German by Libminna
Portuguese by Estela Mizukawa
Video tutorial by Esther Dijkstra of It’s all in a Nutshell
Ok, so after today we are almost half done with the CAL! But still many more clues are waiting for you ahead! :)
Today's design is a kind of mixture of everything you did before during this CAL. You will see some elements that you've made already but at the same time there will be more layers added. I believe that by now you are almost experts in overlay crochet as you have already trained the basics of this technique. You know how to attach new yarn, how to needle join, how to crochet in back or front loops, how to anchor overlaid stitches and how to keep your gauge under control. But if you joined this CAL right now and haven't crocheted three previous blocks, please, check a separate section about overlay crochet before you start to make your first square. There you will find answers to all the questions.
Are you ready for the next block? Here it is!!
You will need:
- Yarn in 6 colors. I used yarn “Cotton Light” by DROPS (50g/1.76 oz., 105 m/115 yds.) Yarn weight: DK. Texture: 8 ply (11 wpi)
- Crochet hook 3,25 mm (D) or size needed to obtain acceptable gauge. (Please, feel free to choose another yarn weights and the hook to get larger or smaller square).
- Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends (I prefer crochet hook for weaving in).
The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. My square is approx. 12.5 cm (5 inches) large.
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd - round
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
lp(s) - loop(s)
FL - front loop(s)
BL - back loop(s)
NJ - needle join
sk - skip st(s)
*…* - *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
slst (slip stitch) - insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
tr (treble crochet) – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
tr2tog (treble crochet 2 together) - *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
tr3tog (treble crochet 3 together) – *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 3 times in same st, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
sc inc - single crochet increase
hdc inc – crochet two hdc in the same st.dc inc - double crochet increase
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Instructions
Color Key: C1 – Yellow, C2 – Beige, C3 –Rnd 1. Start with yarn C4.
Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11 dc in magic ring; NJ in the 1st dc after ch2. (= 12 dc)
*1 dc inc in each st of rnd 1 (the 1st dc of the rnd will be ch2)* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (= 24 dc)
Note: make 3 tr’s of each tr3tog in the same st of rnd 1. There will be 1 st skipped on rnd 1 between two tr3tog’s.
*1 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 tr3tog (FL) in the directly underlying st of rnd 1, sk no sts on rnd 2, 2 sc, 1 sc inc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st tr3tog of the rnd after ch1. (= 36 sts)
Note: make all tr’s to the height of working rnd. And don’t work this rnd too tight. Your circle should stay flat.
*3 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 tr (FL) in skipped st of rnd 1 visible between two tr3tog of rnd 3, sk 1 st on rnd 3, 2 sc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 36 sts)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in any tr (BL) of rnd 4. Work this rnd in BL!
*1 hdc inc (the 1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2 hdc* 12 times, NJ in the 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (= 48 hdc’s)
Note: You will get 12 “V” on this rnd and there are always 2 sts skipped on the rnd 4 at the bottom of each “V”.
*2 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch),
1 tr2tog (FL) (work 1st tr (FL) in a st of rnd 4 directly above underlying tr3tog of rnd 3, work second tr (FL) in next tr of rnd 4), sk no sts on rnd 5, 4 sc,
1 tr2tog (FL) (work 1st tr (FL) in the same st of rnd 4 where previous tr was made and work 2nd tr (FL) in a st of rnd 4 directly above next tr3tog of rnd 3), sk no sts on rnd 5, 2 sc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 60 sts)
Note: all dc inc’s are made in tr2tog’s of rnd 6.
*1 dc inc in tr2tog (the 1st dc of the rnd will be ch 2), 4 dc* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (= 72 sts)
*6 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 tr in next st, ch2, 2 tr in next st, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc* 4 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 80 sts + 4 ch2-sps)
*12 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 hdc, 2 dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, 2dc in the same ch2-sp, 1 hdc, 6 sc* 4 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 96 sts + 4 ch2-sps)
How many squares do you have right now? Don't forget to show them off on Facebook and Ravelry. As usually, you can find a pin for this block on Pinterest - please, feel free to repin it and share with your friends!
Happy crocheting week,
p.s. Next week there will be something different - one more of my own favorites ;) By the way, which blocks are your favorites?.. I will be happy to hear from you in comments to this post!
And here is video made by Esther Dijkstra from It’s all in a Nutshell. Have fun! :)
Tatsiana, thank you one more time for sharing this wonderful CAL. I won with the third granny and I'm going to make this one with great illusion.
ReplyDeleteI have to say that to watch the Esther Dijkstra's video is a great pleasure!!! And very inspiring!!!
This is lovely! I got behind last week because of life getting in the way, so I look forward to doing both block 3 and 4. :) Thank you for sharing your awesome talent.
ReplyDeleteThank you, it's so much fun to work your Pieces.
ReplyDeleteWonderful patterns and really enjoying the challenge. I am new to overlay crochet so am also appreciating Esther's videos - they are great.
ReplyDeleteJan
Thank you! I am happy videos are helpful. Esther is doing a great job indeed!
ReplyDeleteAfter weeks of being in awe of the CAL blocks, but being quite unsure of doing overlay crochet, I played around with my leftover yarns and couldn't stop! I am in love! Thank you!!!!
ReplyDelete2 days and 4 blocks done -- with a lot of trying to figure things out but the joy of completing the beautiful designs is priceless.
Again, thank you!
-Lihanna
Thankyou! Still struggling with NJ, but can't believe I've learned so.much in 3 and a bit squares. Your instructions are the best I've come across.
ReplyDeleteBe prepared to do your own math. For instance - you finish round 8 with 20 stitches per side. Then when you attempt to do round 9 where four stitches of each side are in the chain space you only have 14 stitches per side leaving 6 stitches on each side just sitting there. It took about three attempts before I rewrote the pattern. Free pattern - you get what you pay for.
ReplyDelete