This is a second part of my Circles of the Sun CAL in overlay crochet. If you haven't done the first square, please, check general information about this CAL and a tutorial for the first block. And today we will make the second square. The pattern is a little bit more tricky than the previous one and you will also make your first overlay stitches.
Please, also check Part 1 of this CAL.
I was asked several times how many squares should be done with each pattern during this CAL. I suggest that you make only one (and 9 in total) and join them in one large square which will be used as a front decoration for a fabric pillow cover. But you can also make two squares by each pattern and as a result you will get two decorations which you can use as front and back for your pillow. And you will have the whole crocheted pillow in the end of this CAL. So, it's really up to you!
Dutch by Dianne Baan
German by Libminna
Portuguese by Estela Mizukawa
Video tutorial by Esther Dijkstra of It’s all in a Nutshell
Important Notes
I think that the most difficult about overlay crochet is to read the pattern correctly (and to write them, as well!). Projects in overlay crochet, big or small, always need a lot of attention: you should read the pattern and count the stitches carefully. It is very important to attach the yarn in the right stitch on every round because this will influence the position of all overlaid stitches. You should also clearly understand where exactly you should “anchor” overlay stitches. When working in overlay crochet you usually crochet background in back loops and front loops stay “free” – here you will attach overlaid stitches. Please, check more information about it HERE.
You should be careful with skipping stitches behind the overlaid ones. Please, be aware that the amount of skipped stitches is NOT always the same as the amount of overlaid stitches. You can read more information about this HERE.
And just a small remind that I suggest to join new yarn by simply pulling it in indicated stitch and making one or two chain stitches (which will count as the 1st sc, hdc or dc accordingly). And I also suggest that you join your rounds with a needle join, which will help to make joining sections invisible! You can read detailed information about these two aspects HERE and HERE. If you are not sure how to find front and back loops of the stitches, please, read THIS post.
Let's begin with the second block?
You will need:
The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. My square is approx. 12.5 cm (5 inches) large.
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd - round
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
lp(s) - loop(s)
FL - front loop(s)
BL - back loop(s)
NJ - needle join
sk - skip st(s)
*…* - *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
tr (treble crochet) – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
tr3tog (treble crochet 3 together) – *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 3 times in the same st, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
sc inc – crochet two sc in the same st.
dc inc – crochet two dc in the same st.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Color Key: C1 – Yellow, C2 – Beige, C3 –Orange
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C4.
Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as first dc) and 11 dc in magic ring; NJ in the 1st dc after ch2 - 12 dc.
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in any dc of rnd 1. Work this rnd in BL!
*1dc inc in each st of rnd 1 (first dc of the rnd will be ch2)* 12 times, NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2 - 24 dc.
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C6. Attach yarn in first dc (BL) of any dc inc of rnd 2. Work this rnd in BL! All "legs" of each tr3tog are made in the same st of rnd 1. Please, make sure that your tr3tog's are made to the height of the working round.
*1sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1tr3tog (FL) in st of rnd 1 directly below, sk no sts on rnd 2, 2sc, 1sc inc* 6 times, NJ in first tr3tog of the rnd after ch1 - 36 sts.
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in a st of rnd 3 (BL) that comes just after any tr3tog. Work this rnd in BL! Please, note that dc increases are made in tr3tog's and first sc of each sc inc of rnd 3.
*2dc (first dc of the rnd will be ch2), 1dc inc in next st* 12 times, NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2 - 48 dc.
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first dc (FL) of any dc inc of rnd 4 lying between two tr3tog’s. Work this rnd in FL!
Note: if your chain stitches are too loose, please, feel free to make ch3 instead of each ch4.
*2sc on rnd 4 (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), ch4, 1sc (FL) in tr3tog of rnd 3 below, ch4, sk 6 sts on rnd 4* 6 times, finish with a sl st in the same st of rnd 4 where yarn was attached. Fasten off, pull both yarn tails to the wrong side and secure them with a knot - 18 sc, 12 ch4-sps.
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second dc (BL) of dc inc of rnd 4 which lies above any tr3tog. Work this rnd in BL and some sc are made in spaces between two dc!
*4sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1sc inc, 3sc, 1sc in a space before next dc* 6 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 60 sts.
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in first sc (BL) of rnd 6 that comes just after any sc which was made between dc’s. Work this rnd in BL!
*9hdc (first hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next sc (which was made between dc’s)* 6 times, NJ in first hdc of the rnd after ch2 - 66 hdc.
Rnd 8. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first hdc (BL) that comes after any hdc inc of rnd 7. Work this rnd in BL!
Note: This rnd is a bit tricky, so please read the instructions carefully before you start. Every repeat section contains two dc. And you should skip no sts on rnd 7 behind first dc, and then skip 1 st behind second dc. And, please, try to keep the gauge of dc under control: they should be neither too tight nor too loose and always made to the height of the working round!
*5sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1dc (FL) in first st of inc of rnd 6 below, sk no sts on rnd 7, 5sc, 1dc (FL) in sc of rnd 6 below (made in space between dc’s), sk 1 st on rnd 7* 6 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 72 sts.
Rnd 9. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st (BL) after any dc of rnd 8. Work this rnd in BL! You will get 4 corners after this rnd.
*6sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1hdc, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr in next st, ch2, 2tr in next st, 2tr, 2dc, 1hdc* 4 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 80 sts and 4 ch2-sps.
Rnd 10. Change to yarn С3. Attach yarn in first sc (BL) of any group of six of rnd 9. Work this rnd in BL!
*12sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1hdc, 2dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, 2dc in the same ch2-sp, 1hdc, 6sc* 4 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 96 sts, 4 ch2-sps.
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Please, also check Part 1 of this CAL.
I was asked several times how many squares should be done with each pattern during this CAL. I suggest that you make only one (and 9 in total) and join them in one large square which will be used as a front decoration for a fabric pillow cover. But you can also make two squares by each pattern and as a result you will get two decorations which you can use as front and back for your pillow. And you will have the whole crocheted pillow in the end of this CAL. So, it's really up to you!
TRANSLATIONS
Dutch by Dianne Baan
German by Libminna
Portuguese by Estela Mizukawa
Video tutorial by Esther Dijkstra of It’s all in a Nutshell
Important Notes
I think that the most difficult about overlay crochet is to read the pattern correctly (and to write them, as well!). Projects in overlay crochet, big or small, always need a lot of attention: you should read the pattern and count the stitches carefully. It is very important to attach the yarn in the right stitch on every round because this will influence the position of all overlaid stitches. You should also clearly understand where exactly you should “anchor” overlay stitches. When working in overlay crochet you usually crochet background in back loops and front loops stay “free” – here you will attach overlaid stitches. Please, check more information about it HERE.
You should be careful with skipping stitches behind the overlaid ones. Please, be aware that the amount of skipped stitches is NOT always the same as the amount of overlaid stitches. You can read more information about this HERE.
And just a small remind that I suggest to join new yarn by simply pulling it in indicated stitch and making one or two chain stitches (which will count as the 1st sc, hdc or dc accordingly). And I also suggest that you join your rounds with a needle join, which will help to make joining sections invisible! You can read detailed information about these two aspects HERE and HERE. If you are not sure how to find front and back loops of the stitches, please, read THIS post.
Let's begin with the second block?
You will need:
- Yarn in 6 colors. I used yarn “Cotton Light” by DROPS (50g/1.76 oz., 105 m/115 yds.) Yarn weight: DK. Texture: 8 ply (11 wpi)
- Crochet hook 3,25 mm (D) or size needed to obtain acceptable gauge. (Please, feel free to choose another yarn weights and the hook to get larger or smaller square).
- Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends (I prefer crochet hook for weaving in).
The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. My square is approx. 12.5 cm (5 inches) large.
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
lp(s) - loop(s)
FL - front loop(s)
BL - back loop(s)
NJ - needle join
sk - skip st(s)
*…* - *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
tr (treble crochet) – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
tr3tog (treble crochet 3 together) – *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 3 times in the same st, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
sc inc – crochet two sc in the same st.
dc inc – crochet two dc in the same st.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Instructions
Color Key: C1 – Yellow, C2 – Beige, C3 –
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C4.
Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as first dc) and 11 dc in magic ring; NJ in the 1st dc after ch2 - 12 dc.
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in any dc of rnd 1. Work this rnd in BL!
*1dc inc in each st of rnd 1 (first dc of the rnd will be ch2)* 12 times, NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2 - 24 dc.
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C6. Attach yarn in first dc (BL) of any dc inc of rnd 2. Work this rnd in BL! All "legs" of each tr3tog are made in the same st of rnd 1. Please, make sure that your tr3tog's are made to the height of the working round.
*1sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1tr3tog (FL) in st of rnd 1 directly below, sk no sts on rnd 2, 2sc, 1sc inc* 6 times, NJ in first tr3tog of the rnd after ch1 - 36 sts.
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in a st of rnd 3 (BL) that comes just after any tr3tog. Work this rnd in BL! Please, note that dc increases are made in tr3tog's and first sc of each sc inc of rnd 3.
*2dc (first dc of the rnd will be ch2), 1dc inc in next st* 12 times, NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2 - 48 dc.
Note: if your chain stitches are too loose, please, feel free to make ch3 instead of each ch4.
*2sc on rnd 4 (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), ch4, 1sc (FL) in tr3tog of rnd 3 below, ch4, sk 6 sts on rnd 4* 6 times, finish with a sl st in the same st of rnd 4 where yarn was attached. Fasten off, pull both yarn tails to the wrong side and secure them with a knot - 18 sc, 12 ch4-sps.
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second dc (BL) of dc inc of rnd 4 which lies above any tr3tog. Work this rnd in BL and some sc are made in spaces between two dc!
*4sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1sc inc, 3sc, 1sc in a space before next dc* 6 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 60 sts.
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in first sc (BL) of rnd 6 that comes just after any sc which was made between dc’s. Work this rnd in BL!
*9hdc (first hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next sc (which was made between dc’s)* 6 times, NJ in first hdc of the rnd after ch2 - 66 hdc.
Rnd 8. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first hdc (BL) that comes after any hdc inc of rnd 7. Work this rnd in BL!
Note: This rnd is a bit tricky, so please read the instructions carefully before you start. Every repeat section contains two dc. And you should skip no sts on rnd 7 behind first dc, and then skip 1 st behind second dc. And, please, try to keep the gauge of dc under control: they should be neither too tight nor too loose and always made to the height of the working round!
*5sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1dc (FL) in first st of inc of rnd 6 below, sk no sts on rnd 7, 5sc, 1dc (FL) in sc of rnd 6 below (made in space between dc’s), sk 1 st on rnd 7* 6 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 72 sts.
Rnd 9. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st (BL) after any dc of rnd 8. Work this rnd in BL! You will get 4 corners after this rnd.
*6sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1hdc, 2dc, 2tr, 2tr in next st, ch2, 2tr in next st, 2tr, 2dc, 1hdc* 4 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 80 sts and 4 ch2-sps.
Rnd 10. Change to yarn С3. Attach yarn in first sc (BL) of any group of six of rnd 9. Work this rnd in BL!
*12sc (first sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1hdc, 2dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, 2dc in the same ch2-sp, 1hdc, 6sc* 4 times, NJ in first sc of the rnd after ch1 - 96 sts, 4 ch2-sps.
Congratulations! Your first granny square from Circles of the Sun CAL 2015 is now finished. Don't forget to share it on Facebook and Ravelry. You can find a pin for this block on Pinterest - please, feel free to repin it and share with your friends!
And here is a video tutorial for Block 2 kindly recorded for Circles of the Sun CAL by Esther Dijkstra from It's All in a Nutshell! Have fun! :)
See you next Friday!
thank you so much,
ReplyDeleteCU Mela
This is great! Thank you.
ReplyDeleteПревосходный квадрат!
ReplyDeleteExcellent Block!
Thank You!
Thank you so much for taking the time to create this wonderful CAL. I am loving the blocks and can not wait for the next installment.
ReplyDeleteare the instructions for tr3tog, in the stitch guide and instructions at the top, correct? I end up with too many loops on my hook. I may be reading it wrong but seems like its missing one step. Thank you for doing this CAL, I am really enjoying learning overlay crochet this way.
ReplyDeleteYes, you are right. There was an error... I've fixed it already. Please, try the instructions once again. After you yo twice, insert the hook in the indicated st, yo and draw up a lp you should *yo and pull yarn through both lps* twice. Then you should finish with a correct number of lps.
ReplyDeleteI love this CAL. Thank you very much for do it. i've got so much fun crocheting it!!! I'm going to do this one right now.
ReplyDeleteIn step 3 where it says 2sc, 1 sc inc. does this mean that I do 1sc in the next stitch and then 2 in the following before doing the treble.
ReplyDeleteBernadine, yes, you should make 1 sc in next st, and then 2 sc in next st. And then you are ready for next tr3tog.
ReplyDeletethanks Lilla
DeleteSorry I can't find the german version.Thanks Denise
ReplyDelete