Today is the day! I am so happy, excited, nervous and thrilled to share Part 1 of my new Peacock Tail Bag with you. If it’s the first time you hear about it – please check my blog post with all the details and general information HERE. I will add links to every part as they are published.
Before you start crocheting, I would like to share a few things with you. Please, check Important Notes where I gathered all the abbreviations, stitch guide and explanation about all the techniques which will be used during the CAL. As well as CAL in general, these notes are translated into 12 languages by a wonderful team of enthusiastic translators (you will find their names in each part). I send many thanks and hugs to all of them and Massiel Lago and Laurene Leeseberg Bluder in particular!
Important Notes are available as pdf-files for download. PLEASE, please, (please!!!) read them carefully before you start crocheting and make sure you understand everything. If you have any doubts, please feel free to ask your questions in Official CCC Social group on Facebook HERE (many thanks to Susan Cutler Cutrer) where my CAL is officially hosted, or in my Ravelry group HERE (you will find a separate thread for asking questions, commenting and sharing the pictures of your finished projects).
Part 2 can be found HERE.
Important Notes are available here:
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
GAUGE
Hopefully after reading these notes you will find the answers to all possible questions. But I would like draw your attention to the importance of keeping correct gauge.
- If you are using kits or your own colors of Linen Soft* by Scheepjes yarns the gauge is especially important for you as your yardages are limited and you should be very precise with the gauge not to run out of some shades. In case it happens – don’t worry. You can always change colorway for bag’s back (as it’s not important) and to add the shades you have left. But to prevent it, please, make sure the size of your crocheted pieces is exactly as stated in the pattern.
- I used 2.75mm (C) Clover Soft Touch* hook but you can go one or several sizes up or down. Just, please, find the most comfortable tension.
- It’s also extremely important to have front and back of your bag the same size after each part. There are lots of front post stitches used for the front (which may pull a bit – please, keep an eye on that) while the back is relaxed. So please, check the size of front and back after every part (or ideally – after every round/row).
COLOUR WAY
And the last thing I wanted to tell you – the colorways for Deep and Pastel versions are not the same. So please, be careful and don’t mix them. The colors for a pastel version are given in bracket on each round/row. If you chose your own colors – feel free to experiment with them and choose the best colorway for you.
Part 1 is very short and the most easy. It’s meant to introduce you to the techniques but also gives you the chance to practice front post stitches…
Ok… Seems like this is everything! Are you ready? So… let’s begin!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 1
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Color Key DEEP VERSION:
C1 – emerald (608 – 1 skein), C2 – green (606 – 1 skein), C3 – purple (603 – 1 skein), C4 – dark blue (611 – 2 skeins), C5 – light blue (614 – 1 skein)
Color Key PASTEL VERSION:
C6 – grey (619 – 2 skeins), C7 – light blue (629 – 1 skein), C8 – purple (612 – 1 skein), C9 – lavender (624 – 1 skein), C10 – off white (613 – 1 skein).
Important!! If you are familiar with overlay crochet, you may probably know that stitches of the background are usually made in back loops only. But for this pattern please work all rounds and rows on back AND front – through both loops!!!
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
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FRONT PART
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1 (C6). Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3 (С8). Attach yarn in 1st st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next st (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1 (С6). Attach yarn in 1st dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*dc in next 2 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 2nd dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*dc in next 3 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 2nd dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
Note: please, feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if they pull too much. Front post stitches should be made to the height of working round, and they should be not too tight and not too loose.
*hdc in next 4 sts (1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next st* 3 times, *hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around 2nd dc of underlying increase of rnd 4, sk no sts on rnd 5* 9 times; NJ in 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 2nd hdc of hdc increase of rnd 6 after last FPtr.
Sc in next 13 sts (1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 9 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (82)
Your piece should measure 12 cm (4 ¾”) after rnd 7.
**********************************************************
BACK PART
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after rnd 7.
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1 (C6). Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3 (С8). Attach yarn in 1st st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next st (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1 (С6). Attach yarn in 1st dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*dc in next 2 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 2nd dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*dc in next 3 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 2nd dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
*hdc in next 4 sts (1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 2nd hdc of any hdc increase of rnd 6.
Sc in 13 next sts (1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 9 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (82)
Congratilations! Part 1 is now finifshed! :)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
Back:
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thanks!let's go
ReplyDeletenot instructions in french?
Sandrine07 (http://sandrine07.canalblog.com/ )
Unfortunately instructions in French are a bit delayed. But they will be added soon!
Deletecool :-) !!!
ReplyDeletethank you very much!
Thanks you very much for sharing this amazing pattern!!
ReplyDeleteGod bless you.Hugs Tatsiana and Lilla ,from California USA
I love Mandala design,too *.*
Tammy Go
Oh wow, I am very impressed to see instructions in my first language, Afrikaans, here. I usually follow the US instructions, but it really is wonderful that you have the Afrikaans, thank you!!
ReplyDeleteHugs from South Africa
Erica
Is there something wrong with the downloads? When I try to download part 1 I'll get the important notes. Not part 1 with rows 1-7. All the other parts (2-6) are downloaded but I miss part 1.
ReplyDeleteSorry, I've found it, didn't look right.
ReplyDeleteA month ago I made this bag in the pastel version as a birthday present for one of my sisters. Yesterday I started the deep version as a birthday present for my other sister. It is such a nice pattern to crochet, and such a lovely gift to give (and receive). Plus, it's done a lot quicker than the first Lillabjorn pattern I made, the Rozeta (SUPER gorgeous piece of art, that one is). Thanks so much Tatsiana, for all your designs!
ReplyDelete