Peacock Tail Bag CAL: Part 5

You know what? I almost forgot it’s Wednesday today and I should publish Part 5 of the Peacock Tail Bag CAL for you. I checked my e-mail box in the morning and saw files with translations, and I almost had a heart attack! But luckily there were still 2 hours to prepare everything, so here it is!! If it’s first time you hear about this CAL – please, check general information HERE and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4.

DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

I have a good excuse for having bad memory though. Yesterday I returned from Sweden, where I spent almost 5 days – all of them sitting by the sea for long-long hours. Totally switched off. I thank you very much for support and lovely comments you gave me last week. They helped me a lot. Shortly after Part 4 was published, I packed my suitcase, left my husband with a kid and a dog and went to Malmö. You might know I have a very special relation with this place, and it already became a tradition to come there every year in late August-early September. I will for sure tell you more about my trip. But now it’s probably better to come back to the CAL.


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Important Notes

1. Yardages and Colors. Today’s part is final before the bag will be joined and put together. So after you finish Part 5 you will know exactly the size of your bag. If your gauge was off and you put back part aside for a while to see how much yarn in each shade will be left, now you can finish both front and back. You should have plenty of C4 and C6 left – and you will use it for the band next week.

2. Special techniques. You will work with short rows on this part – please, be careful when you count the stitches to place 1st stitch of every row correctly. You will attach new yarn by simply pulling a loop in indicated stitch and making ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch). And each row will be finished with a slip stitch.Please, use “modified clusters” again. Tutorial is HERE.

3. Shape and “cupping”. On this part both your back and front will start “cupping” at the bottom. Don’t worry – this is on purpose: to shape the bag’s bottom nicely.

4. Wings and symmetry. You may have already noticed, that wings of you bag are not 100% symmetrical. I tried very hard to bring them to exactly the same shape. But because all the rows are worked on the right side, a turning effect appears, and it was very difficult to get rid of it, and to keep pattern symmetrical at the same time. After you finish part 5, please, try to block both parts to almost the same shape (so that they match nicely when put together with wrong sides). It will NOT work at 100%. But don’t worry. After the band is added, the shape should work itself out.

5. Social Media. Don't forget to share your creations on Instagram and Pinterest. Please use the tag #PeacockTailBagCAL.

Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.

If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.

COPYRIGHT

IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.

INSTRUCTIONS: PART5

 

Edit: some translations are not ready at the moment. they will be added in next days or even hours. Sorry for delay. the files are in proof-read at the moment.

English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish

VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.

Abbreviations (US terms)

US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.

rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet 
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated

************************************************************

FRONT PART

 

Row 26. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Attach yarn in 18th st.

Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and to the end), sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, *FPtr2tog (work 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr’s below), sk no sts, hdc in next 16 sts* 5 times, FPtr2tog (as previous), sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (103 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 27. Change to yarn C5 (C9). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Note: as in previous parts, make “modified” tr4tog’s here and throughout.

Ch1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st, *hdc in next 4 sts, tr4tog in 4th hdc of row 25 before next FPdtr, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in same FPdtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in 4th hdc of row 25 after same FPdtr, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts* 5 times, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (95 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 28. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Note: Each tr4tog of row 27 “hides” two hdc’s of previous row. Legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around hdc of row 26 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 27 below (but not around the hidden ones).

Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, *[FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts* 4 times, [FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (91 sts + ch1+sl st)

Row 29. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 4th st after ch1.

Ch1, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next st, *hdc in next 14 sts, tr4tog in hdc of row 27 visible at the bottom of “V”, sk 1 st, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog (as previous), sk 1 st* 3 times, hdc in next 15 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (84sts+ch1+sl st)

Rnd 30. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 14th st after ch1.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of row 28 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 29 below.

Ch1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, *hdc in next 13 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st* twice, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in next st. (59 sts+ch1+sl st)

Row 31. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.

Ch1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog in 1st of 2 sts of row 29 visible at the bottom of underlying “V”, sk 1 st, *hdc in next 17 sts, tr4tog (as previous), sk 1 st* twice, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (49 sts+ch1+sl st)

Row 32. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 4th st after ch1.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of row 30 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 31 below.

Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, *sc in next 17 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st* twice, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (41sts+ch1+sl st)

Row 33. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Begin with standing hdc in 1st hdc of row 25.
Note: always make hdc in the same st where yarn was attached, and next hdc in next sc – on one side. Make hdc in last sc of each row and then in the same st of previous row where sl st was made (placing hdc after sl st) – on the other side.

Hdc in 145 sts, fasten off. (145)

After this row your piece should measure 29cm (11 ½”) from top to bottom.
It may happen that your amount of stitches will differ a bit. This is not critical at all. You will only need to take it into consideration while joining front and back parts together. And if the number of stitches differs on both parts – you will need to make several decreases evenly.

Back Part

Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 33.

On this and all next rows new yarn is attached by simply pulling a loop into indicated st.

Row 26. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 19th st!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 sts*, 5 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (103 sts + ch1 + sl st )

Row 27. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 86 sts, sc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (95 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 28. Change to yarn C4 (C9). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 14 sts, *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts* 4 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (91 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 29. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 70 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (84 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 30. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 11th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 49 sts, sc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (59 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 31. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 5th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 41 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (49 sts + ch1 + sl st)

Row 32. Change to yarn C2 (C9). Start in 4th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 41 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (41 sts + ch1 + sl st )

Rnd 33. Same as front! Don’t fasten off!

Block front and back parts to the same size (and possibly shape). Wings are not completely symmetrical, but the band will ease things into place. Part 6 is available HERE.

And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.

Front:

and Back:

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