Nori Dress free crochet pattern is here. I’ve spent last three days covered with math, and I made more calculations than in all my designing life, I think! I got many requests about different sizes and I tried to do my best to please everyone. Yarns with one long gradient change of colour will work best for this pattern. But you can use any other Fingering yarn. If you missed my previous posts, please, click HERE to see more pictures of the finished dress.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Whirl yarn is available in local Scheepjes stores and from large international retailers: Wool Warehouse HERE*, Deramores HERE*, Taemombo (US and Canada) HERE, Knotty House (Canada) HERE*.
Whirl dress is designed with a slight oversized effect. Please, carefully choose the size. Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.
S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL)
To fit bust/chest 81-107cm/32-42” (108-117cm/42.5-46”, 122-136/48-53.5”)
Actual bust/chest 114cm/45” (126cm/49.5”, 138cm/54”)
Actual length 112cm/44”. This length is valid only for S/M size and 2 cakes of Whirl yarn. If you would like to get same length for bigger sizes, you will need 3 cakes of Whirl yarn.
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
ch chain stitch
dc double crochet
ss slip stitch
RS right side
WS wrong side
yrh yarn round hook
NJ needle join, or "invisible join" (check tutorial HERE)
Each part of yoke (front and back) is worked with 1 ball of Whirl yarn, then after sides are joined together the work is continued in round with alternation of two balls "as-you-go" (marked as yarn A and B in the pattern) as stated in the pattern.
Ch2 in the beginning of each row/round doesn’t count as st. So first dc is made in same st as join (unless otherwise stated in the pattern).
Changing yarn. Because dress is worked with two alternating balls, the floats of yarn can appear on wrong side. To minimize this effect, when making ch5 in the beginning of the round – make each ch with new yarn (see pictures below).
With yarn A ch156 (ch180, ch204), join with ss in 1st ch.
Foundation Round 1 (RS) Ch2 (does not count as st here and throughout), 1dc in same ch as join, 1dc in each of next 155ch (179ch, 203ch), join with ss on top of 1st dc – 156 (180, 204) sts.
Foundation Round 2 Continue with yarn A.
Ch5 (counts as 1dc and ch2-sp), skip st at a base of ch and next st, *1dc in next st, ch2, skip next st* repeat around, ss in 3rd ch in the beg of round – 78 (90, 102) dc, 78 (90, 102) ch2-sps
Now front and back of yoke will be worked separately in back and forth.
All rows are worked with Yarn A. Ch2 in the beg of each row doesn’t count as dc, so 1st dc is made in 1st st of previous row.
!!Important Note:!!! On this and ALL NEXT ODD rounds every ch2-sp of previous row/rnd counts as st. So each dc and increase is either made in dc or ch2-sp.
Row 1 (RS). Ch2, 11(13, 13) dc, 2dc in next sp, [10 (12, 14) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 12 (12, 14) dc, turn – 85 (97, 109) dc
Row 2 (WS). Ch5 (counts as 1dc and ch2-sp here and throughout), skip same as at a base of ch and next st, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] repeat to end, turn – 43 (49, 55) dc, 42 (48, 54) ch2-sps
Row 3. Note: Last dc on this and next odd rows is made in 3rd ch of last ch5-sp
Ch2, 1dc in each st/sp – 85 (97, 109) dc
Row 4. As Row 2
Row 5. Ch2, 12 (13, 14) dc, 2dc in next sp, [11 (13, 15) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 12 (13, 14) dc, turn – 91 (103, 115) dc
Row 6. As Row 2 – 46 (52, 58) dc, 45 (51, 57) ch2-sps
Row 7. As Row 3 – 91 (103, 115) dc
Row 8. As Row 2 – 46 (52, 58) dc, 45 (51, 57) ch2-sps
Row 9. Ch2, 13 (13, 15) dc, 2dc in next sp, [12 (14, 16) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 12 (14, 14) dc, turn – 97 (109, 121) dc
Row 10. As Row 2 – 49 (55, 61) dc, 48 (54, 60) ch2-sps
Row 11. As Row 3 – 97 (109, 121) dc
Row 12. As Row 2 – 49 (55, 61) dc, 48 (54, 60) ch2-sps
Row 13. Ch2, 13 (14, 15) dc, 2dc in next sp/st, [13 (15, 17) dc, 2dc in next sp/st] 5 times, 13 (14, 15) dc, turn – 103 (115, 127) dc
Row 14. As Row 2 – 52 (58, 64) dc, 51 (57, 63) ch2-sps
Row 15. As Row 3 – 103 (115, 127) dc
Row 16. As Row 2 – 52 (58, 64) dc, 51 (57, 63) ch2-sps
Row 17. Ch2, 14 (15, 16) dc, 2dc in next st/sp, [14 (16, 18) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 13 (14, 15) dc, turn – 109 (121, 133) dc
Row 18. As Row 2 – 55 (61, 67) dc, 54 (60, 66) ch2-sps
Row 19. As Row 3 – 109 (121, 133) dc
Row 20. As Row 2 – 55 (61, 67) dc, 54 (60, 66) ch2-sps
Row 21. Ch2, 14 (15, 16) dc, 2dc in next sp, [15 (17, 19) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 14 (15, 16) dc, turn – 115 (127, 139) dc
Row 22. As Row 2, do not fasten off (secure loop from unravel)! – 58 (64, 70) dc, 57 (63, 69) ch2-sps
Optional (to prevent neck opening from stretching): With Yarn B work around neck opening with slip stitches, join with NJ in 1st ss, fasten off. Don’t work too tight so that slip stitches don’t pull.
Attach Yarn B with ss in same st of Foundation row 2 where last dc of Row 1 of front was made.
Repeat Rows 1-21 as for Front. (On Row 1 last dc is made in same st of Foundation Row 2 where 1st dc of Front was made).
Row 22. As Row 2. Line Front and Back together with WS facing you and make ss (on WS) in 3rd ch of ch5-sp in the corner (bottom) of Front to join Front and Back together, turn.
In the pictures below you will see yarn in 2 colors. Yarn A (front of Yoke) is white and Yarn B (Back) is green.
Bottom of the dress is worked in rounds on RS.
Rnd 23 (RS). Continue with yarn B. Ch2, 1dc in 1st dc of Back, 113 (125, 137) dc, 1dc in both 3rd ch of last space on Back and 1st dc of Front, 113 (125, 137) dc, ss on top of 1st dc – 228 (252, 276) dc.
Rnd 24. Ch5 (counts as 1dc and ch2-sp), skip st at a base of ch and next st, *1dc in next st, ch2, skip next st* repeat around, ss in 3rd ch in the beg of round, fasten off – 114 (126, 138) dc, 114 (126, 138) ch2-sps
Armholes of your dress are now finished. If they are too big, sew sides together (from bottom to top) using tapestry needle and Yarn B to desired size.
Then attach Yarn B with ss into the seam of the armhole, make ch1 and work with sc evenly around armhole. Join with ss in 1st sc (or NJ for invisible join), fasten off.
Repeat for another armhole.
Rnd 25. Insert hook on top of dc nearest to loop of Yarn A (yarn is behind work) and pull a loop through top of dc.
Ch2, [18 (20, 22) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 240 (264, 288) dc
Rnd 26. Continue with Yarn A. As Rnd 24 – 120 (132, 144) dc, 120 (132, 144) ch2-sps
Rnd 27. Change to Yarn B. Ch2, 240 (264, 288) dc, ss on top of 1st dc – 240 (264, 288) dc
Rnd 28. Continue with Yarn B. As Rnd 24 – 120 (132, 144) dc, 120 (132, 144) ch2-sps
Rnd 29. Change to Yarn A. Ch2, [19 (21, 23) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 252 (276, 300) dc
Rnd 30. Continue with Yarn A. As Rnd 24 – 126 (138, 150) dc, 126 (138, 150) ch2-sps
Rnd 31. Change to Yarn B. Ch2, 252 (276, 300) dc, ss on top of 1st dc – 252 (276, 300) dc
Rnd 32. Continue with Yarn B. As Rnd 24 – 126 (138, 150) dc, 126 (138, 150) ch2-sps
On all next Rnds (to end) change yarn after every Rnd.
Rnd 33. Change to Yarn A. Ch2, [20 (22, 24) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 264 (288, 312) dc
Rnd 34. As Rnd 24 – 132 (144, 156) dc, 132 (144, 156) ch2-sps
Rnd 35-37. Ss in next sp, ch5, [1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat till end, finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round – 132 (144, 156) dc and 132 (144, 156) ch2-sps (after Rnd 37)
Repeat Rnds 33-37 till you reach desired length. In every repeat of Rnd 33 increase the number of dc in each repeat by one (see example below - increased amounts of dc are underlined!):
Rnd 38. As Rnd 33 +1dc in each repeat
Ch2, [21 (23, 25) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 276 (300, 324) dc
Rnds 39-42. As Rnds 34-37 - 138 (150, 162) dc, 138 (150, 162) ch2-sps (after Rnd 42)
Rnd 43. As Rnd 33 +2dc in each repeat
Ch2, [22 (24, 26) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 288 (312, 336) dc
Rnds 44-47. As Rnds 34-37 - 144 (156, 168) dc, 144 (156, 168) ch2-sps (after Rnd 47)
Rnd 48. As Rnd 33 +3dc in each repeat
Ch2, [23 (25, 27) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 300 (324, 348) dc
Rnds 49-52. As Rnds 34-37 - 150 (162, 174) dc, 150 (162, 174) ch2-sps (after Rnd 52)
Rnd 53. As Rnd 33 +4dc in each repeat
Ch2, [24 (26, 28) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 312 (336, 360) dc
Rnds 54-57. As Rnds 34-37 - 156 (168, 180) dc, 156 (168, 180) ch2-sps (after Rnd 57)
Rnd 58. As Rnd 33 +5dc in each repeat
Ch2, [25 (27, 29) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 324 (348, 372) dc
Rnds 59-62. As Rnds 34-37 - 162 (174, 186) dc, 162 (174, 186) ch2-sps (after Rnd 62)
Rnd 63. As Rnd 33 +6dc in each repeat
Ch2, [26 (28, 30) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 336 (360, 384) dc
Rnds 64-67. As Rnds 34-37 – 168 (180, 192) dc, 168 (180, 192) ch2-sps (after Rnd 67)
Rnd 68. As Rnd 33 +7dc in each repeat
Ch2, [27 (29, 31) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 348 (372, 396) dc
Rnds 69-72. As Rnds 34-37 - 174 (186, 198) dc, 174 (186, 198) ch2-sps (after Rnd 72)
If at some point you run out of yarn but would like to make a longer dress, attach third cake of Whirl - use end of the same color as last rounds of your dress. This will help to keep the colour change gradient, but in another direction.
Next Rnd after you reach desired length: Ch2, 1dc in each st and sp, ss in top of 1st dc.
Next Rnd: repeat Rnd 24.
Next Rnd: *ch3, ss in next dc* to the end, fasten off, weave ends. Block to measurements.
Ta-dah!!! Your Whirl Dress is now finished!!!
Would you mind to share a picture with me? (pleeeeease!)
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Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
TRANSLATIONS
Czech translation by Jana Pazourková (Bambolina) is HERE (Překlad návodu do češtiny je ZDE).
German translation by Jennifer Ruschinski is HERE.
Les explications sont aussi disponibles en français ICI
Μετάφραση στα Ελληνικά από την Κατερίνα Πουτιού HERE.
Materials
- Scheepjes Whirl (60% cotton, 40% acrylic 225g/1000m)
Whirl yarn is available in local Scheepjes stores and from large international retailers: Wool Warehouse HERE*, Deramores HERE*, Taemombo (US and Canada) HERE, Knotty House (Canada) HERE*.
- 3.25mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle to weave in tails
Level: Beginner
Gauge
20 sts and 10 rows to 10 x 10cm (4” x 4”) over double crochet stitches using 3.25mm hook and Fingering yarnFinished size
Whirl dress is designed with a slight oversized effect. Please, carefully choose the size. Instructions for larger sizes are given in brackets.
S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL)
To fit bust/chest 81-107cm/32-42” (108-117cm/42.5-46”, 122-136/48-53.5”)
Actual bust/chest 114cm/45” (126cm/49.5”, 138cm/54”)
Actual length 112cm/44”. This length is valid only for S/M size and 2 cakes of Whirl yarn. If you would like to get same length for bigger sizes, you will need 3 cakes of Whirl yarn.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
ch chain stitch
dc double crochet
ss slip stitch
RS right side
WS wrong side
yrh yarn round hook
NJ needle join, or "invisible join" (check tutorial HERE)
Pattern Notes
Each part of yoke (front and back) is worked with 1 ball of Whirl yarn, then after sides are joined together the work is continued in round with alternation of two balls "as-you-go" (marked as yarn A and B in the pattern) as stated in the pattern.
Ch2 in the beginning of each row/round doesn’t count as st. So first dc is made in same st as join (unless otherwise stated in the pattern).
Changing yarn. Because dress is worked with two alternating balls, the floats of yarn can appear on wrong side. To minimize this effect, when making ch5 in the beginning of the round – make each ch with new yarn (see pictures below).
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be translated other than for persoanl use, copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.Yoke
With yarn A ch156 (ch180, ch204), join with ss in 1st ch.
Foundation Round 1 (RS) Ch2 (does not count as st here and throughout), 1dc in same ch as join, 1dc in each of next 155ch (179ch, 203ch), join with ss on top of 1st dc – 156 (180, 204) sts.
Foundation Round 2 Continue with yarn A.
Ch5 (counts as 1dc and ch2-sp), skip st at a base of ch and next st, *1dc in next st, ch2, skip next st* repeat around, ss in 3rd ch in the beg of round – 78 (90, 102) dc, 78 (90, 102) ch2-sps
Now front and back of yoke will be worked separately in back and forth.
Front
All rows are worked with Yarn A. Ch2 in the beg of each row doesn’t count as dc, so 1st dc is made in 1st st of previous row.
!!Important Note:!!! On this and ALL NEXT ODD rounds every ch2-sp of previous row/rnd counts as st. So each dc and increase is either made in dc or ch2-sp.
Row 1 (RS). Ch2, 11(13, 13) dc, 2dc in next sp, [10 (12, 14) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 12 (12, 14) dc, turn – 85 (97, 109) dc
Row 2 (WS). Ch5 (counts as 1dc and ch2-sp here and throughout), skip same as at a base of ch and next st, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] repeat to end, turn – 43 (49, 55) dc, 42 (48, 54) ch2-sps
Row 3. Note: Last dc on this and next odd rows is made in 3rd ch of last ch5-sp
Ch2, 1dc in each st/sp – 85 (97, 109) dc
Row 4. As Row 2
Row 5. Ch2, 12 (13, 14) dc, 2dc in next sp, [11 (13, 15) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 12 (13, 14) dc, turn – 91 (103, 115) dc
Row 6. As Row 2 – 46 (52, 58) dc, 45 (51, 57) ch2-sps
Row 7. As Row 3 – 91 (103, 115) dc
Row 8. As Row 2 – 46 (52, 58) dc, 45 (51, 57) ch2-sps
Row 9. Ch2, 13 (13, 15) dc, 2dc in next sp, [12 (14, 16) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 12 (14, 14) dc, turn – 97 (109, 121) dc
Row 10. As Row 2 – 49 (55, 61) dc, 48 (54, 60) ch2-sps
Row 11. As Row 3 – 97 (109, 121) dc
Row 12. As Row 2 – 49 (55, 61) dc, 48 (54, 60) ch2-sps
Row 13. Ch2, 13 (14, 15) dc, 2dc in next sp/st, [13 (15, 17) dc, 2dc in next sp/st] 5 times, 13 (14, 15) dc, turn – 103 (115, 127) dc
Row 14. As Row 2 – 52 (58, 64) dc, 51 (57, 63) ch2-sps
Row 15. As Row 3 – 103 (115, 127) dc
Row 16. As Row 2 – 52 (58, 64) dc, 51 (57, 63) ch2-sps
Row 17. Ch2, 14 (15, 16) dc, 2dc in next st/sp, [14 (16, 18) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 13 (14, 15) dc, turn – 109 (121, 133) dc
Row 18. As Row 2 – 55 (61, 67) dc, 54 (60, 66) ch2-sps
Row 19. As Row 3 – 109 (121, 133) dc
Row 20. As Row 2 – 55 (61, 67) dc, 54 (60, 66) ch2-sps
Row 21. Ch2, 14 (15, 16) dc, 2dc in next sp, [15 (17, 19) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 5 times, 14 (15, 16) dc, turn – 115 (127, 139) dc
Row 22. As Row 2, do not fasten off (secure loop from unravel)! – 58 (64, 70) dc, 57 (63, 69) ch2-sps
Optional (to prevent neck opening from stretching): With Yarn B work around neck opening with slip stitches, join with NJ in 1st ss, fasten off. Don’t work too tight so that slip stitches don’t pull.
Back
Attach Yarn B with ss in same st of Foundation row 2 where last dc of Row 1 of front was made.
Repeat Rows 1-21 as for Front. (On Row 1 last dc is made in same st of Foundation Row 2 where 1st dc of Front was made).
Row 22. As Row 2. Line Front and Back together with WS facing you and make ss (on WS) in 3rd ch of ch5-sp in the corner (bottom) of Front to join Front and Back together, turn.
In the pictures below you will see yarn in 2 colors. Yarn A (front of Yoke) is white and Yarn B (Back) is green.
Bottom of the Dress
Bottom of the dress is worked in rounds on RS.
Rnd 23 (RS). Continue with yarn B. Ch2, 1dc in 1st dc of Back, 113 (125, 137) dc, 1dc in both 3rd ch of last space on Back and 1st dc of Front, 113 (125, 137) dc, ss on top of 1st dc – 228 (252, 276) dc.
Rnd 24. Ch5 (counts as 1dc and ch2-sp), skip st at a base of ch and next st, *1dc in next st, ch2, skip next st* repeat around, ss in 3rd ch in the beg of round, fasten off – 114 (126, 138) dc, 114 (126, 138) ch2-sps
Armholes of your dress are now finished. If they are too big, sew sides together (from bottom to top) using tapestry needle and Yarn B to desired size.
Then attach Yarn B with ss into the seam of the armhole, make ch1 and work with sc evenly around armhole. Join with ss in 1st sc (or NJ for invisible join), fasten off.
Repeat for another armhole.
Rnd 25. Insert hook on top of dc nearest to loop of Yarn A (yarn is behind work) and pull a loop through top of dc.
Ch2, [18 (20, 22) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 240 (264, 288) dc
Rnd 26. Continue with Yarn A. As Rnd 24 – 120 (132, 144) dc, 120 (132, 144) ch2-sps
Rnd 27. Change to Yarn B. Ch2, 240 (264, 288) dc, ss on top of 1st dc – 240 (264, 288) dc
Rnd 28. Continue with Yarn B. As Rnd 24 – 120 (132, 144) dc, 120 (132, 144) ch2-sps
Rnd 29. Change to Yarn A. Ch2, [19 (21, 23) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 252 (276, 300) dc
Rnd 30. Continue with Yarn A. As Rnd 24 – 126 (138, 150) dc, 126 (138, 150) ch2-sps
Rnd 31. Change to Yarn B. Ch2, 252 (276, 300) dc, ss on top of 1st dc – 252 (276, 300) dc
Rnd 32. Continue with Yarn B. As Rnd 24 – 126 (138, 150) dc, 126 (138, 150) ch2-sps
On all next Rnds (to end) change yarn after every Rnd.
Rnd 33. Change to Yarn A. Ch2, [20 (22, 24) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 264 (288, 312) dc
Rnd 34. As Rnd 24 – 132 (144, 156) dc, 132 (144, 156) ch2-sps
Rnd 35-37. Ss in next sp, ch5, [1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat till end, finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round – 132 (144, 156) dc and 132 (144, 156) ch2-sps (after Rnd 37)
Repeat Rnds 33-37 till you reach desired length. In every repeat of Rnd 33 increase the number of dc in each repeat by one (see example below - increased amounts of dc are underlined!):
Rnd 38. As Rnd 33 +1dc in each repeat
Ch2, [21 (23, 25) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 276 (300, 324) dc
Rnds 39-42. As Rnds 34-37 - 138 (150, 162) dc, 138 (150, 162) ch2-sps (after Rnd 42)
Rnd 43. As Rnd 33 +2dc in each repeat
Ch2, [22 (24, 26) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 288 (312, 336) dc
Rnds 44-47. As Rnds 34-37 - 144 (156, 168) dc, 144 (156, 168) ch2-sps (after Rnd 47)
Rnd 48. As Rnd 33 +3dc in each repeat
Ch2, [23 (25, 27) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 300 (324, 348) dc
Rnds 49-52. As Rnds 34-37 - 150 (162, 174) dc, 150 (162, 174) ch2-sps (after Rnd 52)
Rnd 53. As Rnd 33 +4dc in each repeat
Ch2, [24 (26, 28) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 312 (336, 360) dc
Rnds 54-57. As Rnds 34-37 - 156 (168, 180) dc, 156 (168, 180) ch2-sps (after Rnd 57)
Rnd 58. As Rnd 33 +5dc in each repeat
Ch2, [25 (27, 29) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 324 (348, 372) dc
Rnds 59-62. As Rnds 34-37 - 162 (174, 186) dc, 162 (174, 186) ch2-sps (after Rnd 62)
Rnd 63. As Rnd 33 +6dc in each repeat
Ch2, [26 (28, 30) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 336 (360, 384) dc
Rnds 64-67. As Rnds 34-37 – 168 (180, 192) dc, 168 (180, 192) ch2-sps (after Rnd 67)
Rnd 68. As Rnd 33 +7dc in each repeat
Ch2, [27 (29, 31) dc, 2dc in next st/sp] 12 times, ss on top of 1st dc. – 348 (372, 396) dc
Rnds 69-72. As Rnds 34-37 - 174 (186, 198) dc, 174 (186, 198) ch2-sps (after Rnd 72)
If at some point you run out of yarn but would like to make a longer dress, attach third cake of Whirl - use end of the same color as last rounds of your dress. This will help to keep the colour change gradient, but in another direction.
Next Rnd after you reach desired length: Ch2, 1dc in each st and sp, ss in top of 1st dc.
Next Rnd: repeat Rnd 24.
Next Rnd: *ch3, ss in next dc* to the end, fasten off, weave ends. Block to measurements.
Ta-dah!!! Your Whirl Dress is now finished!!!
Would you mind to share a picture with me? (pleeeeease!)
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). By using them you support my blog. Thank you!
Gorgeous dress. I love the colors. Thank you so much for sharing this great pattern.
ReplyDeleteHave a nice day, Margaret
Hi MArgaret! Thank you! This shade is my favourite among Whirl colors.
DeleteWow! Even though I don't wear dresses I so want to make this! Another great pattern, many thanks.
ReplyDeleteIf you are not fond of dresses, you can make a top :)
DeleteThank you for including different sizes! I am excited to make this beautiful dress!
ReplyDeleteI've only made math for 2 additional sizes, and hopefully it will work fine! Please, let me know when you finish your own dress. I will be happy to see it :)
DeleteBeautiful dress and love the color yarn... But I will have to look for a different yarn as 75.00 for 3 skeins of yarn is to expensive for me..Thank you for the pattern and the bigger sizes..
ReplyDeleteHi Robin, yes I understand... If you look for other yarn, please choose very soft fingering yarn.
DeleteThank you for a beautiful pattern. I can't wait to make it.
ReplyDeleteYou are welcome!
DeleteJust gorgeous thank you
ReplyDeleteThank you!
Deletethank you soooooooo much I have been desperately searching for a dress/tunic style pattern to use with the whirl yarn and here it is :)
ReplyDeletePlease, share your pictures with me when you are finished. I love to see finished projects :)
DeleteIt's beautiful dear. Thank you very much for sharing your work with the crochet lovers. I'll give it a try. :)
ReplyDeleteThank you!
DeleteSince yesterday - I have discovered your blog - I am permanently amazed, you create very beautiful things :-) First of all I want to make this dress, but I would prefer it shorter (above knees length) with a tighter skirt - not A-shape, just straight. Would you help me to adapt the pattern?
ReplyDeleteHi Dagmar, thnak you! If you want to make a straight dress, after you reach desired width - don't make eny other increases and just work in rounds for the bottom. the only adjustment for you will be leaving out increases. Hope that helps.
DeleteThank you. But anyway I need 2 balls of Whirl to make front and back part equal, right?
DeleteIf you would like to use Whirl and keep one long color change - then yes, you will need 2 cakes.
DeleteSaw this dress somewhere else and pointed it out to a friend, now I know it's your's I'll definately have to give it a go. I think I'd like it shorter too, to go over jeans- Now which colour to choose! Love the star bag too, I'm off to put it in my favourites now so I don't forget.
ReplyDeleteLovely, but can i use caron cake yarn instead of this? Its pretty costly for me.
ReplyDeleteCaron Cake is Aran yarn. so if you use it, your fress will be too big and heavy. and it will not drape well...
DeleteYour fresa e beautifull!!! I fall in love with it, on the momento i Saw it 😊 thank you for the instrucional, i wish i could make one for me😊 i love desses and long skirts.
ReplyDeleteHugs and kisses from Portugal,
Susana
thanks for your generosity with the free pattern and tutorial, its just the thing to get me started in crocheting garments.
ReplyDeleteSo very beautiful! Thank you for the pattern
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for sharing Tatsiana!
ReplyDeleteI have included a link to the pattern on my blog as I’m doing a series of summer pattern round-ups. I hope that’s ok!
https://creatingtimecom.wordpress.com/2017/07/18/free-summer-crochet-patterns-to-get-the-season-started-right-part-4-summer-dresses/
Thank you again for a lovely pattern!
Katie
My first row foundation was so difficult for me to do properly, finding the right places and it twisted. Are there tips or instructions how to do a good foundation row?
ReplyDeleteMaybe if you find it difficult to make dc in chains you can try a "foundation double crochet" instead? there are lots of video's about it in the internet.
DeleteThank you Tatsiana. By the way I am a big fan.
DeleteThank you. I'm using 100% cotton yarn. Do you think that might be a problem when washing?
DeleteI don't know... I think if you hand wash it should not be a problem.
DeleteDo you think it would be possible to totally like this dress?
ReplyDeleteI love this dress. I think I'll make a tunic out of it to wear over leggings. I wonder if one skein would be enough to make it about butt length? I think if I buy two skeins to make an XL size I could always just start repeating the color pattern again in reverse instead of alternating rows.
ReplyDeleteIf you want to make a tunic you can probably replace all ch2 with ch1. then you will save some yarn and hopefully even one skein will be enough for XL size... I haven't tried this pattern in different sizes, but this is just my thought.
DeleteHello Tatsiana ;) may I ask... I am working on nori dress S/M size... you increased number of DC in r. 68 last time please? I mean after 27 DC in that r. you made 2DC to one stitch... then after next 4 rounds in round with only DC you made only DC to every DC and every ch space or you made again increasing like 28 DC and then 2DC to one stitch? I apologize for my English ;) Thank you
ReplyDeleteDobry den, muzete to prosim napsat Cesky? Bude to asi jednodussi :)
Delete:) asi som to prekomplikovala :))... skusim teda ... od 38. řádku se v každém 5. řádku přidávají dlouhé sloupky. Tedy v řádcích číslo 38, 43 ,48 až po 68. Moje otázka je, jestli mám v rozšiřování pokračovat i v dalších řadách, tedy 73, 78... anebo jestli bude počet dlouhých sloupků v těchto řádcích stejný jako v řádku 68, který je posledním v návodě. Dekuji! :)
Deletedobre, ted' se pokusim opdovedet spravne ja :) Ja jsem porkacovala v rozsirovani az do konce satu. Ale Vy klidne muzete skoncit s tim driv. Zalezi na tom, jak siroke dole saty chcete.
DeleteDekuji, to jsem chtela vedet ;) a tesim se i na novy CAL, jen si vybrat farebni kombinaci vsechny jsou krasne ❤️
ReplyDeleteHi, I just finished the dress in red velevet sinshine colour, and I was wondering which technique you used to block the dress! Because the yarn is composed of cotton and acrylique I don't know which technique will not "hurt" this wool. Thank you for your answer :)
ReplyDeleteTo be very honest I didn't block mine at all... But I think if you pin it and spay with water it should work fine.
DeleteHi Tatsiana, Thank you so much for linking to the Translation Project on my site :) This is a lovely dress and I just popped in to share it when I saw the link. Thank you again!! Rhondda
ReplyDeleteThank you for the larger sizes on this dress pattern. I just made it but I had to use a different yarn. I love it! Can't wait to wear it when I go somewhere!!
ReplyDeleteGreat pattern, as always. I have a question: after the increase in round 68, when we continue to make it longer, we continue to increase every 5 rows in the same fashion or we just do a double crochet row every 5 rows? Best! Clara
ReplyDeleteHello Clara, you can either continue increasing or just make the rest of the bottom straight. Depending on how wide the bottom you want :)
DeleteDid you continue to increase in the one posted on this page? I like the flow of it! :)
DeleteI don't remember :) But the pattern says to repeat rounds with increases. So I believe I did increases for A-shape...
DeleteTwo questions: Why, if the yoke is made with one ball of yarn, is the front made with yarn A and the back with yarn B? And why, once you're working in the round, do you have to change yarn for each row?
ReplyDeleteNori dress is made with 2 cakes of Whirl. It's a gradient yarn, and colors are changed all the time. So to keep one long gradient, you should make front abd back with different cakes, and then, when you resume crochet in rounds, you should alternate cakes after every round.
DeleteThanks! That makes sense to me now.
DeleteGreat pattern and beautiful dress! i would like to make this dress in xs size for a teen. how to reduce the stitches to make it smaller, trying to do the math here but find it difficult. if you could help me that will be great!Thanks so much for a loverly pattern!
ReplyDeleteLovely pattern, am going to try it soon but I'ld love it in an XS style (for my daughter). Also, could you please clarify how one switches yarns in the later part of the pattern? Do I keep keep cutting and rejoining the yarn after every round? or is it as simple as just carrying onto the next round with the other yarn ball? Not sure how to do this as I'm still a newbie and would like to have a clear idea before I start the project. Thank You!
ReplyDeleteNo, you should not cut the yarn. Please, carry it up to new rows by working chainsalternating two cakes. Please, see Pattern notes for a picture of how to do that.
DeleteMy friend and I will each be starting on this beautiful dress in a little while. We both work in UK terms and I would normally copy & paste the pattern into a word doc, translate the terms, get rid of any unnecessary photos and then print it off. Your copyright data says we can't make a print or digital copy of the pattern so I'm not sure what to do. Is this permitted as it will just be for personal use? Thanks
ReplyDeleteHello, yes, you can print the pattern for your personal use. But you are not allowed to share it with anyone. Please, share the link to this blog post instead :) thank you!
DeleteThank you, off to order the yarn now!!!
DeleteI will be making this dress in Red Heart Ombre in Anthracite. I also want to make sleeves or a cardigan.
ReplyDeleteAlso want to line it. What would be the best thing to use for lining?
Will it be alright to use just one cake of gradient yarn? If so that would mean it should be around 400g correct?
ReplyDeleteHello! I'm trying to make this using a single color yarn, is there a way to do the front and back continuously or do I still have to do them separately? Thanks! :)
ReplyDeleteMe encanta este vestido lo estoy haciendo en un solo tono y lo estoy tejiendo de manera circular sin cambiar de madeja en la parte de adelante y atrás
ReplyDeleteMe encanta este vestido lo estoy haciendo en un solo tono y lo estoy tejiendo de manera circular sin cambiar de madeja en la parte de adelante y atrás
ReplyDeleteI have been searching for a pattern like this for 2 years!!! Thank you so much!!!
ReplyDeleteIs there a print-friendly link? It appears that I have to print out the web pages. Thank you. Brenda Erwin - Texas
ReplyDelete