Welcome to Grinda MAL! As you probably know this design was inspired by a boat trip to Stockholm Archipelago we took together with my husband last summer (read full story HERE). If you visit Stockholm, going out to the sea is a must-do. Not only because a boat trip offers a nice change from the city life. But because it’s a small adventure itself. And the sea scenery with small islands is amazing.
Stockholm Archipelago is a group of islands situated together in a kind of a cluster. And they are as many as tens of thousands! Every island is different in size and shape. Some of them are larger and thus have become city suburbs linked to the mainland with bridges and ferries. For tourists taking a ferry out to the sea is a part of relaxed sightseeing. And for many local people it’s just another, very convenient, way to get to work, for example.
Ferries leave regularly in small intervals. And tickets are available at the boat station. Each ferry has its own name, which I find very charming. So today we are leaving Stockholm and take the boat to the islands. Take your seat (preferably outside to enjoy fantastic sea views), breath out, order a cup of tasty coffee and get your hook and Whirl ready. Our adventure begins… now!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Translations:
Materials:
Whirl (Woolly Whirl or Frosted Whirl) yarn by Scheepjes – 1 cake. (225g/7.94 oz., 1000m/1094 yds)Yarn weight: Fingering (14 wpi)
!! Important:
The shawl uses approx. 210g of Whirl. To be safe you might want to order one matching cake of Whirlette by Scheepjes. Leftovers can be used to extend the shawl (directions given in the pattern) or to make a fringe.
Alternative yarn: 3 cakes of Whirlette yarn by Scheepjes.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Both Whirl and Whirlette yarn are available for purchase in your local Scheepjes shops or via online retailers: Deramores* has put together kits for all samples shown in this blog post (UK, international shipping), Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK, international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe),
Knotty House* (Canada).
3mm/3.25mm crochet hook* (or the size needed to obtain correct gauge), scissors, tapestry needle to weave in tails.
Gauge: after Row 6 the triangle is approx. 5cm/2in high.
Size: the size of your finished shawl will depend on the yarn and hook you use, and on your personal gauge. My shawl is approx. 180cm/70.8” wide across and approx. 85cm/33.5” high.
Extended version is 208cm/81.8” wide and 95cm/37.4” high.
Abbreviations (US terms) and Stitch Guide:
beg - beginning
ch - chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sp(s) – space(s)
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPdc (front post double crochet) – yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
pc (popcorn) – *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 5 times in same st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc made, place dropped lp on hook and pull through st.
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated
Special stitches:
V-st – (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same sp
“lace st” – ch3, skip next sp and dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, 1dc in next dc
Picot – ch3, 1 slip stitch in first ch.
Pattern Notes:
- Grinda Shawl is worked in rows back and forth
- Feel free to place stitch marker in ch2-sp in the central corner to easily find it. Move marker to new rows as you progress.
- Ch4 in the beginning of every row counts as 1dc and ch1-sp. So when making sts in last st of every round – make them into third ch of beginning ch4.
INSTRUCTIONS
PART 1
Dimensions (blocked): approx. 42cm/16.5” wide, 18cm/7” high
Approx. 12 g of yarn used
Row 1. Make magic ring, ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1-sp – here and throughout), (1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) into ring, tighten the ring, turn. (4dc, 2 ch1-sps, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 2. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st (third ch of the beg 4 ch – here and throughout), turn. (4 dc and 3 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 3. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (6 dc and 5 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 4. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st, 1 lace st, ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] twice, 1 lace st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (6 dc, 1 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 5. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (10 dc and 9 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 6. Ch4, 1dc in same st, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (6 dc, 3 sc, 2 ch1-sp and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
At this point triangle should be 5cm/2in high.
Row 7. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till one dc before the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next dc] till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (14 dc and 13 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 8. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till 2 dc left before the corner, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (10 dc, 3 sc, 6 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 9. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 3 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x4, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 3 dc left, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (18 dc and 17 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 10. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 1dc left before the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till 1 dc left, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (10 dc, 5 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 10 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 11. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 2 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (22 dc and 21 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 12. As Row 6 (10 dc, 7 sc, 2 ch1-sps and 14 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 13. As Row 7. (26 dc and 25 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 14. As Row 8. (14 dc, 7sc, 6 ch1-sps and 14 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 15. As Row 9. (30 dc and 29 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 16 RS. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in same st, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] till corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till end, 3 more dc in last sp, turn. (63 dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 17 WS. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in same st, 1FPdc around each st till corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner, 1FPdc around each st till last ch3-sp, 3dc in last sp, turn. (67 sts on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
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Hi, I can't find the print friendly button. Could you please add it? :)
ReplyDeleteI can see it :) Please, try to reload the page. The code is not stable for this button and sometimes it can move itself :)
DeleteOn mine, it's at the bottom. Right above where these comments start and on the right.
DeleteSpanish translation would be possible? Thank you! <3 <3
ReplyDeleteI don't speak Spanish myself and I don't know anyone who could translate the pattern... sorry.
DeleteHi Lilla, I volunteer to translate to Spanish if you wish.
DeleteI can't find the print button for the US version either????
ReplyDeletePlease, try to repload the page.
DeleteHave reloaded page several times and still cannot find the "print" button.
ReplyDeleteI purchased the pattern on Ravelry today but first started with the directions on your blog. I found the blog directions use a dc for the majority of the stitches for rows 1-17 while the purchased pattern uses tr instead of dc. Which is correct?
ReplyDeleteBoth are correct but there is a diference between UK and US versions (different crochet terms). Please, choose the one you prefer.
DeleteDo you know approximately how much yarn the extended version uses? As I’m starting with the whirlette so need to try and judge when to swap to the whirl. Thanks
ReplyDeleteExtended version uses approx. 300g in total. Part 1 = 12g, After Part 2 = 56g, After Part 3 = 106g, after Part 4 = 185g, after extension = 270g. All numbers are for a total piece after each part.
DeleteDo you block each section or just at the end??
ReplyDeletePlease, do it as you like :)
DeleteHi beautiful pattern I am excited to get started! Just a quick question what is the yarn colorway that was used on your 20180620 “Grinda MAL coming soon” post the one where you are sitting crocheting with your bare feet?
ReplyDeleteIt's 754 Green Tea Tipple :)
DeleteHi i cant figure out how row 16 is RS if row 1 starts as RS that makes odd no. Rows RS & even no. WS
ReplyDeleteRow 1 is on WS :) but till row 17 it doesn't really matter as both sides look the same :)
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI love the centre colourway on the intro page, petrol & purples, can you please tell me the name so I can make it in the same colours.
Thanks
Jill
Hi Jill, can you specify which exactly intro picture you mean? in this blog post or in another one?
DeleteSorry, I just clicked on part 1 , not realising I was on scheepjes web site the link is:
DeleteAgain it is the centre one of the 3 at the top of the page
http://www.scheepjes.com/en/cals/scheepjes-make-a-long/grinda-shawl-mal/
I am having a little trouble with the second part of row one. I have never seen instructions written like this. Can you help me clarify where the 4 dc go in? Do they go into the chain 1 space? Then ch2-sp in corner, tha
ReplyDeleteStitches given in the brackets after "turn" are just stitch counts for the row to help you keep on track. they are not instructions for the row.
DeleteWow! This is fun and your directions are very clear. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHello! I purchased the pattern on Ravelry. It calls for triple stitch (tr) instead of double stitch (db) throughout. Confusion in the Americas! Can you help?
ReplyDeletePlease, go to your files agaon and choose US (not UK) file :)
DeleteHi, live this pattern! This might be a stupid question...do I start from the middle of the yarn Whirl or from the outside? Or does it depend on my colour choice?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Caz
Hi Caz, that depends on your own preference :) No rule here.
DeleteHi, Are you planning on making a tutorial to go with the "Grinds Shawl"? I am having trouble understanding where you put your hook after you turn on the first row. Help.
ReplyDeleteStitches given in the brackets after "turn" are just stitch counts for the row to help you keep on track. they are not instructions for the row.
DeleteAm I correct that there is not a photo tutorial for Grinda?
ReplyDeleteHello, when is part 2? Many thanks!
ReplyDeleteDid everyone from the United States, use the Scheepjes Whirl Yarn, Or did you purchase one similar to the yard that is being used on the Grinda?
ReplyDeleteSome of us are using Scheepjes Whirl, I am!
ReplyDeleteHi Tatsiana! I love the look of the pattern but I have no need to make a shawl, so I wonder if the pattern will work well as a square throw blanket if each row is repeated before turning?
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteWhat happened to rows 13-17, I can't find them and they were there last week. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Laura
Masakra z polskim tłumaczeniem strony. Jakaś porażka. Rozumiem ze wszystko ma swoją cenę ale płacić za coś czego nie można przetłumaczyć normalnie to trochę nienormalne. Dlaczego może być czeski a nie może być polski?
ReplyDeleteHello, I understand your feelings. Grinda CAL is offered in Czech because Hana Drozdova (the translator) contacted me and offered her help with translation. Would you like to translate it into Polish maybe? Also just to mention, this CAL is not offered in Estonian, Latvian, Indonesian, Danish, Afrikaans and many other labguages. I can't translate instructions to all languages of the world. You don't have to pay for this CAL, as it is free on my blog. And you also have charts, which you can try and follow :) thank you very much for understanding.
DeleteVery pretty pattern, instrctions seem clear and chart helps. Have ordered a Whirl and anxious to get started. So happy pattern is free. Thanks for sharing your lovely work.
ReplyDeleteHi! Is this still available as print friendly? I can't find the printer button. I have tried refereshing, as well as different internet browsers, but no luck.
ReplyDelete