Fade to Light Jacket MAL. Part 1: short rows

Hello and welcome to Part 1 of the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will talk about choosing the right size and short rows. Before you start working on this jacket, please, make an accurate gauge swatch first. You can find all details about yarn amounts and gauge HERE.

 

There are two options to follow make-a-long. You can either join it for free here on my blog: every Friday new portion of instructions will be published online. Or you can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

Below you will find complete information about the pattern, including material list, abbreviations and pattern notes. And today we will start making the yoke – with short rows.

I have recorded a video for you explaining how to choose correct size for yourself and how to work short rows in crochet: both in theory and practice.

Hope you will have fun!

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

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Materials:

Yarn A: Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art (50% Superfine Merino, 25% Micro fibre, 25% Acrylic; 220g/460 m/503 yards)

Yarn B: Scheepjes Merino Soft (50% Superfine Merino, 25% Micro fibre, 25% Acrylic; 50g/105m/115 yards)

Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more yarn! For yarn amounts see Yarn Choice section

4.5mm crochet hook

Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools

Find all yarn in your local Scheepjes shop, or purchase it online via international retailers:

Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (UK, please check shipping guidelines before placing your order, as there might be limitations due to COVID situation)

Caro’s Atelier* (NL)

Taemombo (US and Canada)

 

Sizes:

XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Finished bust circumference:

91.5 (99.5: 103.5: 109.5: 113.5: 121.5: 127.5: 131.5: 137.5: 145.5) cm

36 (39: 40.7: 43: 44.7: 47.8: 50.2: 51.8: 54: 57.3) in

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

beg beginning

BOR beginning of the row/round

ch chain stitch

corr corresponding

inc increase

sc single crochet

sk skip

ss slip stitch

st(s) stitch(es)

sp(s) space(s)

yo yarn over the hook

pm place marker

prev previous

rm raglan marker

RS right side

WS wrong side

Special Stitches

SPsc (spike single crochet stitch): insert hook under ch1-sp from 2 rows below, yo, draw up a loop to the height of the current st, yo, pull through 2 loops.

(…) several stitches inside (…) made in one st

Pattern repeats:

[…] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern.

*…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern.

Gauge:

20 sts and 18 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) using 4.5mm hook – slightly blocked.

Pattern for gauge (every sc and every ch1-sp counts as a stitch):

Row 1. Ch30, 1sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn – 29 sts

Row 2. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Rows 3-25. Repeat Row 2.

Pattern notes:

Fade to Light Jacket is designed to fit with 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of positive ease at the bust and 1.25-2 in (3-5 cm) of positive ease at the upper arm. The jacket is worked seamlessly from top down. First some short rows are worked back and forth to raise the back neck. Then the yoke with raglan increases is worked in rows to separation for body and sleeves. The lower body with mosaic pattern is worked in rows to bottom. Sleeves are worked top down. The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.

Yarn choice

Fade to Light Jacket pattern was designed especially for Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art and Merino Soft yarns. Use one Whirl cake for size XXS-S, choose between one or two Whirl cakes for size M, and two Whirls are recommended for sizes L-5X. The rest of the yarn is Merino Soft.

Alternatively, Fade to Light Jacket can be worked with Scheepjes Merino Soft Brush yarn instead of Whirl Fine Art: one Whirl is replaced with 5 skeins of Merino Brush (and two Whirls are replaced with 9 skeins of Merino Brush accordingly).

The yoke begins with Whirl and solid shade of Merino Soft is added later for the sleeves and mosaic lower body. You can either start working with light or dark tail of Whirl.

You will need 500 (550, 600, 620, 680, 740, 790, 840, 890, 940)g of yarn, or 1 (1, 1, 1(2), 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) Whirl Fine Art cakes and 6 (7, 8, 8(4), 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) balls of Merino Soft

INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

YOKE

To begin: With Yarn A. Ch92 (100: 100: 104: 112: 112: 124: 124: 124: 136) loosely.

Set up Row (WS):

Front: sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 13) times, ch1 (pm), sk next ch,

Sleeve: 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) times,

Back: ch1 (pm), sk next ch, 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) times, ch1 (pm), sk next ch,

Sleeve: 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) times,

Front: ch1 (pm), sk next ch, 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 31 (35, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 43, 47) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27) sts for each front and 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15) sts for each sleeve.

Set up row

SHORT ROWS (shaping back)

Common Note: Move raglan markers (rm) up to corr sps on next rows as you progress. For easy counting on short rows, mark same st as ss on the edge of every short row – use different color than raglan marker.

!IMPORTANT! If you are using two Whirls you’ll need to start alternating them on Short row 1 for a long gradient color change – find instructions in the pattern. Make sure that floats of yarn stay on WS.

TIP: Because fabric is reversible, it might be helpful to mark RS with waste yarn.

Short row 1 (inc for back and sleeves)

Back: RS. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), 1sc in first sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] x22 (24, 24, 25, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 33) times, ch1 (mark as BOR – use different color! Change to another Whirl for two Whirls option), sk next sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve, Back, Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS side, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR (move rm to corr sp), ch1 (pm for BOR, change to another Whirl for 2 Whirl option), 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last sp and sc left before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 35 (39, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47, 47, 47, 51) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27) sts for each front and 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts for each sleeve.

Use marker of a different color for BOR (beginning of the row)

Move raglan markers to corresponding spaces as you progress

Increases before and after raglan marker

Short row 2 (inc for back and front only!)

Back: ch1 (change to another Whirl for two Whirls option, pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm making sc in same st as ss when you reach it,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR, ch1 (pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm making sc in same st as ss when you reach it,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR .

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 39 (43, 43, 43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51, 55) sts for back, 21 (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27, 27, 27, 29) sts for each front and 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts for each sleeve.

Change to another Whirl for two Whirls option

Work into the same stitch as slip stitch (when you reach it)

Short row 3 (inc for body and sleeves)

Back: ch1 (change to another Whirl for two Whirl option, pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times making sc in same st as ss when you reach it, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR, ch1 (pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times making sc in same st as ss when you reach it, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across rest of sts all the way to the left front making sc in same st as ss when you reach them.

Remove BOR and short rows markers; raglan markers should stay in their place.

Next row - WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across making sc in same st as ss when you reach them and moving rm to corr sps.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 43 (47, 47, 47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 55, 59) sts for back, 23 (25, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29, 29, 31) sts for each front and 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 21) sts for each sleeve.

That's everything for today. See you next week, and we will continue with raglan increases.

 

You can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures. 

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