Like a Kelim pillow: mosaic crochet pattern. PART 1

It is Friday and time for a new pattern maybe? As promised, today we will start making Like a Kelim Pillow. It is an easy and fun mosaic pattern using Scheepjes Softfun mini packs. One pack will be enough for one square. And you can attach it to a ready fabric pillowcase for a new accessory in your room. Check more picture of the finished pillow HERE.

The pattern instructions are long, and I decided to publish them in parts on my blog. But you prefer to have a ready-to-print copy of the pattern, it is available for purchase for a small fee on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. The pdf file includes everything you need: pattern notes, stitch guide, charts, color keys, round-by-round written directions, and complete photo-tutorial.

Colorways Rich and Cloud

Materials: Scheepjes Softfun minis colour pack (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic), 12 x 20g/56m balls

3mm hook, tapestry needle 

You can find Softfun mini packs in your local Scheepjes shop, or you can order yarn online via online retailers:

Woolwarehouse* (UK, international shipping)

Caro's Atelier* (NL, Europe)

Taemombo (Canada and US) 

Colorway Rainbow (two versions). Photo credit: taemombo

Gauge: after 11 rounds central square measures approx. 10 cm/4” across Size Finished square measures approx. 50cm/20”, blocked 

Abbreviations (US terms) 

BL back loop

ch chain stitch 

FL front loop 

rep repeat 

sc single crochet 

ss slip stitch 

st(s) stitch(es) 

sp(s) space(s) 

prev previous 

yo yarn over the hook 

Pattern Repeats 

[…] [rep instructions as many times as indicated] 

*…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern. 

 

Special stitches 

mdc mosaic double crochet: regular dc worked into skipped/unworked st from 3 rows below in front of chains; chains will stay behind mdc and will be skipped. 

SPsc spike single crochet: the spike stitch is almost the same as a single crochet but placed one round below the working round and drawn up to the height of a working round. Insert a hook in indicated st, draw up a loop to the height of the stitches at a working rnd, yo, pull through both lps on hook. Skip the sc of current rnd which is located behind a SPsc just made. Pattern Notes You can either follow only written instructions, or together with the chart. Use one color for 2 rows unless otherwise instructed. The color is changed in the corner of the central square in the first ss, or at the end of rows of Mosaic Stripes in the last yo of the last st. Do not cut the yarn, carry it up to next row. You will have floats of yarn on WS. Make sure they do not pull or are too loose. 

Colorway Jewel. Photo credit: Esther Schippers

 

How to Read the Chart 

Chart is read from bottom to top. Each rnd/row in chart represents two rnds/rows of same color (except of first row of squares for both mosaic border which indicates Row 1). Even rnds/rows are worked on the RS (2, 4, 6, etc) and are read from right to left. Odd rnds/rows on WS (3, 5, 7, etc) are read back across from left to right. 

The first square of each rnd/row shows which color is used for 2 rnds/rows (2-3, 4-5, etc) Each square of the chart shows 1 stitch or 1 missed stitch. When squares of different colors appear in the rnd/row, they should be missed. So instead of working them, make the same number of chs as the number of missed sts. So, for 1 missed st you will have ch1; for 2 missed sts, ch2, etc. 

On RS rnds/rows, when you crochet with a different color, you will make mdc in these missed sts from three rnds below. Mdc are only worked on RS rnds/rows and are always made in front of chains of previous rnds/rows, so the ch-sps are always missed behind them. On WS (odd numbered rnds/rows) you will only make sc and chs. 

Please note that sc are made in sts of the previous rnd/row, and chs are made over chs. 

Important! In the chart for Central Square, first and last squares indicate sc worked in corner ch-sps. Squares marked with a dot are only worked on the WS. 

 

For color key for Rich, Cloud, Jewel, Pastel and two Rainbow options, please download THIS file.

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INSTRUCTIONS

An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2021. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

 Please, note that colors in the photo-tutorial are random and don't correspond with colors in the Scheepjes mini packs.

Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.

Central Square 

Round 1 – RS: Begin with Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, ss to beg sp – 1 sc per side 

Round 2 – RS: Continue with Yarn A. Ch1, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp – 3 sc per side 

Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp – 5 sc per side 

Round 4 – RS: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 3sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 5 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Round 5 – WS: Ch1, [1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2] x4, ss to beg sc inserting hook from back to front (here and for all WS rounds), turn – 7 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Continue working in rounds alternating RS and WS and changing yarn after every two rounds. 

Round 6 – RS: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing back to Yarn A (grabbing it up on WS – here and throughout; make sure the float does not pull), [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, 1mdc in skipped st from 3 rounds below in front of work (here and throughout), ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 7 sc, 2 mdc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Round 7 – WS: Ch1, [1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 4sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2] x4, ss to beg sc, turn – 11 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Round 8: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 8 sc, 2 mdc and 5 ch1-sps per side 

Round 9: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 2sc] x4, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 12 sc and 5 ch1-sps per side 

Round 10: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] x2, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 8 sc, 5 mdc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 11: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 15 sc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 12: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] x3, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 11 sc, 6 mdc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 13: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x3, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 19 sc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 14: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] x3, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 13 sc, 6 mdc and 8 ch1-sps per side 

Round 15: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x4, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 21 sc and 8 ch1-sps per side 

Round 16: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] x4, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 14 sc, 8 mdc and 9 ch1-sps per side 

Round 17: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 2sc] x9, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 24 sc and 9 ch1-sps per side 

Round 18: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] x4, ch1, sk 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 16 sc, 9 mdc and 10 ch1-sps per side 

Round 19: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x5, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 27 sc and 10 ch1-sps per side 

Round 20: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc] x5, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 17 sc, 10 mdc and 12 ch1-sps per side 

Round 21: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x6, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 29 sc and 12 ch1-sps per side 

Round 22: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, 3sc] x6, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 43 sc per side. Fasten off both yarns. 

Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.

That's all for today! See you next Friday when we will add the first mosaic border.

P.s. PART 2 is available HERE.

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